Interlock wiring change.
Plan A: we make a kit, cut and splice wires, estimate lengths, crimp pins, write a procedure, and send it to you. This would take a number of days, and require the fix to be done after going to Sutherland.
Plan B: we describe the fix to you, and you cobble it up before you leave Cape Town.
Let me describe the fix, you'll need this with either plan so you know what's going on.
The image shows a crude outline of PSC2. The dotted line represents the baseplate to which the parts are attached. Wires crossing the dotted line are passing through the notch, from one side of the plate to the other. The red wires indicate what we currently have. The signal name, current and required connections are:
The blue dots symbolize splices, and the blue lines are the newly-created pigtails.
We need to splice each of these 4 wires, creating a "pigtail" that we run to a new location. Below, "Before" represents one of the subject wires. The gold pin symbolizes that all the wires in the plan come with male D-connection pins crimped on them. The "After" shows the splice. We've taken an Amp splice part, and crimped it such that there is the input signal wire, the output signal wire, and the new pigtail wire. For the double splice, you'd do a 1-to-3 kind of thing, instead of 1-to-2. Actually, you'd have 2 wires on each end of the splice; one end would have the input signal and one pigtail, the other end would have the output signal and another pigtail.
The idea is that you identify each of the red wires, cut it, and crimp a splice at the cut, adding the pigtail. The picture indicates suggested locations (i.e. which side of the baseplate) for the splice. With these choices, you will add just one wire to the notch.
Actually, this drawing is a little wrong; the double splice (near "0406") would send another wire through the notch, and the "J410" label should also mention P411 and J412.
You would also remove jumpers J1, J2, J3, and J4 from the PSC2 interlock board.